JAPIE CLAASSEN'S LATEST NAMIBIAN TRIP REPORT

I returned from a 2 week tour to Namibia with some of Birding Africa's clients (www.birdingafrica.com). The aim was to locate most of Namibia's local and western dry endemics. Our route began and ended in Windhoek and took us to Walvis Bay, Omaruru, Hobatere, Etosha National Park and the Waterberg Plateau Park. A total of 253 bird and 31 mammal species were seen in 14 days.

On Day 1 we visited Daan Viljoen Game Reserve outside Windhoek. The rest camp has been privatized and is under construction, so there are no facilities open to the public other than the game drive. You are allowed to bird from the road, which is in poor condition and requires a high clearance vehicle.

On the way to Daan Viljoen we had excellent views of a pair of African Hawk Eagles. Birding in the park was very good with several Violet-eared Waxbills, Dusky Lark, Ashy Tit, Black-chested Snake Eagle, Willow Warbler, Great Sparrow, Monteiro's Hornbill and Rufous-naped Lark. At the reception we saw a Violet Woodhoopoe, Brubru and Groundscraper Thrush. Barred Wren-Warbler was heard in a distance but would not respond to the call. Game included Kudu, Hartmann's Mountain Zebra, Eland and Blue Wildebeest.

In the afternoon (Saturday) we stopped off at Avis Dam but it was very disappointing with few birds and lots of people with dogs. Despite the noise and weekend activity, we had good views of Bradfield's Swifts swooping over the water, Common Greenshank, Black-throated Canary and Redheaded Finch.

The next day we continued to Walvis Bay and Swakopmund. We had early sightings of Pearl-spotted Owlet, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Willow Warbler and Short-toed Rock Thrush. While having breakfast along the roadside we spotted Black-cheeked Waxbill, Pale-winged Starling and Mountain Wheatear. We also had a pair of Verreaux's Eagles soaring overhead, and picked up Jacobin Cuckoo, Augur Buzzard and Kalahari Scrub-Robin. A stop on the roadside delivered two Rockrunners calling from a rock and a few kilometres further on we tracked down two Herero Chats sitting in a tree. A Lappet-faced Vulture soared over the hilly area looking for food.

Continuing onwards, the Namib was covered with Bushman grass which hosted hundreds of Stark's Larks. We also saw our first Northern Black Korhaan, Sociable Weavers and some Fawn-coloured Larks and had brilliant views of Ruppell's Korhaan, Namaqua Sandgrouse and Greater Kestrel. The clients were enthralled by the giant Welwitschias in the desert.

The following day we went birding around Walvis Bay. It was very foggy, so we decided to first have a look around the lagoon. There were thousands of Greater Flamingoes, Black-necked and Great Crested Grebes, Bar-tailed Godwit, Ruddy Turnstone, Terek Sandpiper, Sanderling and White-winged Tern.

Dune Lark was spotted with ease below the huge red dunes, while the gravel plains held both Gray's Lark and the whitish form of the Tractrac Chat (a small group of six birds of the former was feeding on the gravel plains and one came up to about 3 metres from me -- excellent viewing).

Along the coast were the usual thousands of Cape Cormorants and we also spotted Common Redshank, Ruff, Sanderling, Greater Flamingo and two Damara Terns. Walvis Bay produced Chestnut-banded Plover. Except for Greater Flamingo, there were fewer waders and ducks than usual.

From Walvis Bay we went to Erongo via Spitzkoppe. We found numerous Stark's Lark as well as some Gray's, Fawn-coloured and Sabota (Bradfield's) Larks. Small flocks of Namaqua Sandgrouse flew over and on the flat gravel plains Ludwig's Bustard and Ruppell's Korhaan were obvious. The clients were amazed by the variety of interesting desert plants and flowers.

We spotted several Double-banded Coursers along the road and our first Chat Flycatchers. With Herero Chat already seen previously, we successfully bagged Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, White-tailed Shrike, Monteiro's Hornbill and Dusky Sunbird around Spitzkoppe.

We left Spitzkoppe during the heat of the day when the birds were scarce. The only species worth mentioning en route to Erongo was a Booted Eagle. On arrival at our accommodation we were greeted by two Rockrunners chasing each other over the boulders. Late afternoon the resident Hartlaub's Spurfowl visited the feeding place at the restaurant and it was wonderful to see this elusive birds close up from a distance of 2 metres in broad daylight. It was a good opportunity to take some excellent photos.

Another interesting sighting was at sunset when a Rock Kestrel persisted in trying to catch some bats. Although the Rock Kestrel was up to the challenge, it proved to be far too slow for the swift-flying Chiroptera.

The next day was mainly spent birding around the accommodation. After breakfast we enjoyed a trip into the surrounding area where we saw lots of White-tailed Shrikes, Violet-backed Starling, Carp's Tit, Yellowbellied Eremomela, African Hawk Eagle, Damara Hornbill, Red-crested Korhaan, Black-backed Puffback and Double-banded Sandgrouse.

Numbers of Rosy-faced Lovebirds came to feed at the restaurant and were joined by Green-winged Pytilia, Crimson-breasted Shrike and Short-toed Rock Thrush. During the night Freckled Nightjar and Barn Owl were heard calling.

We left Erongo and headed north towards Hobatere. Along the road we glimpsed a Great Spotted Cuckoo and had good sightings of Buffy Pipit, Southern White-crowned Shrike, Burchell's Starling and Ruppell's Parrot.

The area around Brandberg was beautiful after the rains, but the long grass made the search for Benguela Long-billed Lark even more difficult. Nevertheless the grassy plains roam with Stark's Lark, Desert Cisticola, Grey-backed Sparrowlark, Double-banded Sandgrouse, Ludwig's Bustard and Larklike Buntings.

A quick stop along a dry riverbed gave lovely views of hundreds of Namaqua Sandgrouse coming in to drink. These were joined by Gabar Goshawk, Violet-backed Starling, African Grey Hornbill and Carp's Tit. Further on we saw several Shaft-tailed Whydahs, Black-chested Snake, Booted and Tawny Eagles and our first Steppe Buzzard of the trip. Near Kamanjab we found a few Olive Bee-eaters which had not left yet for Angola.

Hobatere Lodge is situated in well-developed mopane veld and the area teems with Meves' Starling, Damara Hornbill and Black-throated Canary. Shortly after arriving we heard the deep grunting call of Verreaux's Eagle-Owl and with the help of one of the guides we had brilliant views of the owl, perched in a tree. At sunset hundreds of Banded Martins came to roost in the vlei adjacent to the lodge.

The next morning we set off early to track down Orange River Francolin. We had early views of Tawny Eagle and African Hawk Eagle and then found one of the Namibian endemics, Bare-cheeked Babbler. We didn't find the Orange River Francolin, but along the way we saw Zitting and Desert Cisticola, Jacobin Cuckoo, Great Sparrow and an Elephant bull! Hartmann's Mountain Zebra were also plentiful, and there were good numbers of Gemsbok (Oryx) and Springbok.

Back at the lodge, a Lesser Honeyguide came to look what food was available, while on a trip towards the gate we had excellent views of Great Spotted Cuckoo, a mixed flock of Bradfield's andAlpine Swift and a Common Scimitarbill.

In the afternoon we saw several other good species like Redfooted Falcon, Temminck's and Doublebanded Courser, Kori Bustard, Bateleur, Buffy and Plain-backed Pipit, Secretarybird, Dusky Lark, Golden-breasted Bunting and Double-banded Sandgrouse. At the little dam close to the lodge we had Squacco Heron, Wood Sandpiper, Three-banded Plover and Little Grebe.

The night drive delivered excellent views of Rufous-cheeked Nightjar, Spotted Thick-knee, Barn Owl and Pearlspotted Owlet, as well as African Wild Cat and Small Spotted Genet.

Afterwards we drove to Etosha and new birds seen along the route were Lanner Falcon, Yellow-billed Kite, Bateleur and dozens of European Bee-eaters. As we arrived in Etosha, thunder clouds rumbled and the rain started. In Okaukuejo camp we found the usual birds and new ones for the trip were Water Thick-knee, Pririt Batis, African Wattled Lapwing, Common House-Martin and Cardinal Woodpecker. A drive along the western side of Etosha Pan added Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark, Marabou Stork feeding on a dead Black-backed Jackal, Lappet-faced Vulture, Spike-heeled Lark, Pygmy Falcon, Greater Kestrel, White-backed Vulture and a single Abdim's Stork.

The next morning, after some heavy overnight rain, we were up early and tackled the muddy roads towards Halali. Just outside the camp we spotted a very wet Steppe Eagle and towards the Gemsbokvlakte waterhole we saw several Kori Bustards and Northern Black Korhaans trying to dry themselves. It seemed that most of the Abdim's Storks had already left Etosha as we only spotted one other of this species. At the waterhole a Common Greenshank enjoyed the company of Three-banded Plover, Red-billed Teal and Blacksmith Lapwing. In general game was scarce due to all the heavy rain and very few animals visited the waterholes.

We saw some Black-faced Impala along the road and at a large pool of water near Ondongab waterhole we found South African Shelduck, Egyptian Geese, Comb Duck, Cape and Redbilled Teal, Black-winged Stilt and large numbers of Wood Sandpipers. The area around the Sueda waterhole gave us Amur Falcon, Lesser and Greater Kestrel, Longbilled Pipit, Red-capped Lark and Greybacked Sparrowlark. Towards Rietfontein waterhole we saw Monotonous Lark calling, Great White Egret and Secretarybird.

In Halali camp, we saw African Scops and Southern White-faced Owls on their roosts. In the area surrounding Halali restcamp we added Red-breasted Swallow, Brown-crowned Tchagra, White-crested Helmet-shrike, European Hobby, Groundscraper Thrush, Blue Crane and Wattled Starling. At the look-out point on the Pan we were surprised to see about 50 Chestnut-banded Plovers enjoying the shallow water. On the way to Namutoni we picked up Swainson's Spurfowl and Southern Pied Babbler. At Goas waterhole, 11 Spotted Hyenas were feeding on the remains of an Impala.

At Springbokfontein waterhole a large water pool originated after all the rain and there were Common Greenshank, Cape Teal and Redbilled Teal, Comb Duck, South African Shelduck and lots of Wood Sandpiper. We found our only European Roller nearby. On the loop to Okerfontein waterhole we had some more Lanner Falcons, Jacobin Cuckoo and Double-banded Courser. We also had good views of four lions resting under a tree (without the usual traffic jam!).

At Fischer's Pan it was interesting to see only one Greater Flamingo. Fischer's Pan was very full and overflowing strongly into the main pan. There were not many birds, but we saw Cape Shoveller, Maccoa Duck, Blacknecked Grebe and Kittlitz's Plover. We couldn't find Blackfaced Babbler on the Bloubokkie loop, but witnessed an interesting clash between two Rednecked Falcons and a Gabar Goshawk in the restcamp.

The next morning we had an early morning drive around Fischer's Pan adding Glossy Ibis, White Pelican and Burchell's Sandgrouse to our Etosha list.

We headed for Waterberg Plateau Park seeing Brown Snake-Eagle, Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah and Lesser Kestrel along the way. The Waterberg and surrounds were very wet and more rain were heading this way. Birding in the camp before sunset gave Ruppell's Parrot (nesting in a dead palm tree), Black-backed Puffback, Grey-backed Camaroptera and Alpine Swift.

Next morning we were out birding early and found a Little Sparrowhawk catching prey. Stopping in at the campsite we immediately heard the loud knock of a woodpecker. Investigating, we found a Bearded Woodpecker tapping at one of the dry trunks. Shortly thereafter two Violet Woodhoopoes flew in to inspect some of the trees. A walk brought Green-winged Pytilia, Lesser Masked Weaver, Jacobin Cuckoo, Ashy Tit and a flock of eight Ruppell's Parrots. While having our own breakfast at the restaurant, a few Scarlet-chested Sunbirds were feeding in the trees. The drive out to the main road gave us sightings of Rattling Cisticola, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Black-cheeked Waxbill, Hamerkop and Acacia Pied Barbet.

Birding in the camp during the afternoon brought Pririt Batis, White-browed Scrub-Robin, Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Verreaux's Eagle, African Hawk Eagle, Bradfield's and Common Swift, Rosy-faced Lovebird and Common House-Martin.

The final day saw us driving from Waterberg to Windhoek and we found a lonely Woolly-necked Stork in a river. Further on we found several Tawny Eagles and Marabou Storks before ending the trip at Windhoek airport.

The end of a fantastic birding trip!

JAPIE CLAASSEN
KAROO BIRDING SAFARIS
BOX 112, BEAUFORT WEST, 6970
TEL +27 23 4142980
FAX 086 6060267
CELL +27 83 724 7916
E-MAIL: claassen@cybertrade.co.za

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